It was Philo who put Joan Didion front and centre of an advertising campaign, remember. I imagine the world and not me in a room with a bunch of clothes. Phoebe pauses. (2021). Phoebe married her husband Max Wigram an English gallerist and art dealer. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. According to New York Times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman, Philo made Cline matter in a way it never had before. After two quiet years, Phoebe Philo's much awaited comeback is nearly here. During her eight years at the house, Philo wardrobed many of the industrys most powerful female arbiters, and a few important dudes, too; Kanye West at Coachella in the printed silk pajama shirt from spring 2011 played its own important role in Cline mania. In 2002, Phoebe commissioned Sophie Hicks to create a concept for the Chlo stores. Phoebe subsequently moved back to London to be with her family and had her second child. These women expect someone that looks like Brad Pitt, with the brains and creativity of Lucian Freud, and they think these qualities will merge together into someone who will love them and be totally accepting of all of their weaknesses. For Sale on 1stDibs - Celine Cream Mohair & Silk Button-Down Cardigan - Mohair and silk blend chunky knit ribbed cardigan with oversized silhouette - V-neck with button closure With this in mind, I am very happy to partner with Phoebe on her entrepreneurial adventure and wish her great success, Bernard Arnault said, describing the designer as one of the most talented of our time. Curating solid pickups from one of Philo's collections at Celine includes being strategic. Being in my studio and making once again has been both exciting and incredibly fulfilling, she shared in a statement at the time of the announcement. She explained in the statement that her working relationship with LVMH had been constructive and creative, adding that their collaboration on her new project would be natural progression. "My aim is to reveal and not to display women," she. LVMH tapped Philo to revive Cline in 2008, where she introduced a number of now-iconic handbags over the course of nearly a decade until 2017. Philo and her peers came up, landed plum jobs at big, if sometimes flagging, companies, and spent productive years making over those labels. That shell bring her vision of smart, grown-up, not overly feminine femininity to scatter like bread crumbs on a city sidewalk for the famished pigeons of fashion? Or familiar: it reminds me of my mum.. During that time, Philo also became the first high-profile female designer at a major fashion house to take an extended maternity leave. Phoebe Philo is a popular British fashion designer who was the creative director of fashion brands Cline from 2008 through 2018 and Chlo from 2001 until 2006. In this series, Phoebe wears, respectively, a vintage parka with a knit cardigan from the CLINE pre-spring 2010 collection, a CLINE tuxedo suit, also from pre-spring 2010, vintage LEVIS and a vintage sheepskin coat. Phoebe Philo's eye for sharp, understated elegance has made the British designer a revered name in fashion. Industry insiders shared that the creative has been working with a . 2 min read. And I mean that down to the most finite detail: how wide her armholes are, the fact that she always paired things with trainers. Since she exited Cline in 2017, an Alphabet Large 'P' pendant-shaped hole has been left in our hearts, and today's news has begun to heal the wound. In June 2021, the designer announced plans to launch her eponymous label, three years after stepping down as creative director of Celine, the French luxury house owned by LVMH, which has taken a minority stake in her new venture. Today's 3,000+ jobs in Geneva, Switzerland. [15] For her 2015 ad campaign, Juergen Teller photographed writer Joan Didion. She later told The Guardian in 2009 that after stepping down from Chlo, she had explored launching her own line, but the time wasnt right. The designer explained at the time that the collection will be rooted in exceptional quality and design. The only reference to Cline is a photo I took of the new logotype., I hope the clothes are worth it. LVMH has reportedly taken a minority stake in the new venture, leaving Philo to do with the brand as she sees fit. Having learnt the lessons from her past position at Chlo, she is now ensuring that the Cline design studio is based in her hometown of London rather than at the companys headquarters in Paris. The simple answer to that question is: because she can. Perhaps she will bypass the seasonal show wheel entirely for a new version of slow fashion, one that is altogether more sustainable. The announcement comes after the 50-year-old designer revealed in July 2021 that she will be launching her own fashion brand. Phoebe is married to her husband Max Wigram an English gallerist and art dealer. Stay abreast of all gentlewomanly happenings and Club doings by signing up for our fortnightly newsletter. Phoebe gets her wealth from her work as a British fashion designer who was the creative director of fashion brands Cline from 2008 through 2018 and Chlo from 2001 until 2006. For example, the line will be of exceptional quality, which is generally fashion-speak for the high luxury end of the pricing and materials spectrum. Visit the site here: https://studio-9.dk . He is 49 years old. She wore very practical clothes and had the same pieces for ten years. Phoebe Philo will make her return to fashion with a namesake brand. [10], In 2008, LVMH offered Philo a job as creative director and board member of the French Maison Cline. Retrieved 14 June 2021, from, With His First Exhibition, Artist Louis Philo Returns to His Creative Roots, "Phoebe's Philo-sophy: top fashion designer says family comes first", Phoebe Philo, the cult fashion designer returns, Phoebe Philo Is Returning to Fashion With Her Own Brand, Phoebe Philo Exits Cline, Adding to Fashion Turmoil, Cline Unveils Its Latest Poster Girl: Joan Didion, Cline SS17 show report: Paris Fashion Week, https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/phoebe-philo, "Phoebe Philo, Fashion's Quiet Revolutionary, Is Launching a New Eponymous Label", Phoebe Philo: She designs the clothes women actually want to wear, "Phoebe Philo by Stella McCartney: TIME 100", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Phoebe_Philo&oldid=1137208842, 2011: "International Designer of the Year" by the, 2005: "British Designer of the Year" by the British Fashion Council, This page was last edited on 3 February 2023, at 11:19. Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. When Tom Ford admitted to suffering depression after leaving Gucci in 2004, it must have been a huge relief to his peers that the designers candour did nothing to diminish his myth. After a more than three-year hiatus, the designer is launching a clothing and accessories label under her own name. Besides the brand will be independent, it has a minority backing from luxury conglomerate LVMH. To Ms. Lohoff, a college instructor who lives in Dortmund, Germany, and has been collecting Cline since 2013, Ms. Philo represents for me how I would like to feel as a woman comfortable with myself. She shipped more than 100 items from her archive to Re-See for the Paris sale, though she still has another 100 at home. Its like a little wink, a little IYKYK look, she said, using an abbreviation for if you know, you know.. New legal actions continue to arrive at Alec Baldwins door. Phoebe Philo, PP Check out their work and jobs on The Dots. In what was almost a memorial service to the legacy of BCBG, both book and collection demonstrated that the brands future would be replete with beautiful, powerful and, above all, ultra-modern women. Now, after a three-year hiatus, she is returning to the industry. Phoebe agreed on the condition to proceed to work in London whilst showing in Paris and devoted the first year to rebuild the business by opening a design studio in a derelict Georgian town house on Cavendish Square in London. Body positivity was my salvation from an anti-fat world. My mum did work as a graphic designer, but it was in a more freelance way that fitted around having a family. Building a new business as the industry works to reestablish itself in the wake of the pandemic may prove extra challenging, even with her name recognition. Make-up: Hannah Murray at Julian Watson Agency. Phoebe is always her own best model, designing clothes that suit wherever she happens to be in life. Perhaps she will be the designer who is really able to take a stand against the dominant culture of disposability and the ravenous maw of the content monster created by TikTok and Instagram. In the announcement Bernard Arnault, the chairman of LVMH, called the new line an entrepreneurial adventure. (Despite the fact that Phoebe Philo-the-brand is not officially part of the luxury group, that LVMH is once again linked with Ms. Philo, given her most-wanted status, is a coup for the conglomerate.). Like every great fashion designer, she had an uncanny knack of tapping into emotion. Theyre not something just to be thrown away.. I have so many friends that are single really intelligent women that are attractive in every single way who are unable to commit to men. Her first ad campaign for Cline notably did not include the heads of the models, ensuring the focus would be on the clothes and bags. Philo brought a functional and minimal approach to fashion, becoming the thinking woman's designer if you will. To revist this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. In the black and white text post, Philo shared that her inaugural collection will be revealed and available on our website, phoebephilo.com, which will open for registration in July. This Is What the Cool Girls Were Wearing Circa Y2K, On the Podcast: Gabriella Karefa-Johnsons Guide to Styling a, The Jewelry Report: The Four Best Jewelry Trends From Milan Fashion Week, Phoebe Philos Return Date Is Finally Here, This Is What Fashion Week Looked Like 20 Years AgoAll the Highlights From the Fall 2003 Season, Luke Meagher, a.k.a. Other honours include: Philo married English gallerist and art dealer Max Wigram (b. Philo announced the move Monday. Theyre not something just to be thrown away. If this is sounding less like a prescription for modern dressing and more a formula for modern living, it should be remembered that these are the words of a woman who in the past ten years has gone from being Stella McCartneys Girl Friday to a spokesperson for her generation. I was freelance and broke when it originally came out, Ms. Willis said. Now . Philo has a pretty impressive resume. In 1987, at the age of 14, Phoebe started customizing her clothes after receiving a sewing machine as a birthday present from her parents. Phoebe grins and leans forward, conspiratorially. In 2005 and 2010, Philo won Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards, and in 2011 she was awarded the International Award at the CFDA Fashion Awards. Her departure from the storied label in 2017 left fans of Philo's work reeling. The characteristically aloof designer has left details scant for now, though she has promised to share more on the brand come January 2022. She was somebody who has walked in our shoes, she said. + Pyer Moss & Balenciaga Couture Discussion 11,856 views Streamed live on Jul 12, 2021 Phoebe Philo is returning to fashion with an. Though the clothes and the corporate communications bear Phoebes unmistakable personal touch, she is insistent that they are the work of a senior and experienced team of international designers that will help her carry the can. Tracey Emin Studio, The Evening Standard Magazine, Hearst Magazines UK, Art on a Postcard, Storm Model Management; Helen Nguyen . "I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere. By signing up you agree to our User Agreement and Privacy Policy & Cookie Statement. At her 2009 Cline debut she said, it felt better for me to work on an idea of a wardrobe than too much trend. "Being in my studio and making once again has been both exciting and incredibly fulfilling," she said in a statement. 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